Borderland Tours Borderland Tours| 2012 Newsletter |
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Back From Jamaica!
by Rick Taylor
Sometimes adversity brings new opportunity. Less than a week out our lead guide was forced to withdraw from Borderland’s maiden excursion into Jamaica. I called Ann Sutton.
Ann is the author of the recent Birds of Jamaica, a photographic field guide that stands alone as the definitive work on Jamaica’s avifauna. After three decades as a resident of the island nation, as well as her experiences as farmer, conservationist, artist, and scientist, Ann is an authority on practically all things Jamaican. When I explained my predicament, she said she might be able to help. After 24 hours of agonizing suspense, she decided to join us. To characterize our tour as a success is an understatement. Thanks to Ann, we easily located every single Jamaican endemic, 27 species, more than any other Caribbean nation. We were also treated to superb views of most every other multi-island Caribbean endemic bird that was possible. In-your-face Jamaican Todies were an absolute delight, and below minimum focus views of Red-billed Streamertails—or “Doctorbirds” as they are locally known, as well as beautiful Orangequits and Jamaican Orioles were also spellbinding. An unforgettable 19-inch-long Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo in the Blue Mountains sidled up so close I had to put my camera on macro. In Kingston’s famous Hope Gardens, four of the endemic Yellow-billed Parrots launched a fracas that was a green, blue, and pink blur of iridescent fury as it rolled within a few yards of our feet. Afterwards one of the combatants, perhaps the eldest, panted from the nearest low branch as we happily snapped its portrait—and then it lapsed into a nap. We saw no fewer than four “Caribbean” Barn Owls, a unique subspecies, on our dusk run from Elim Pools. One allowed our coaster to roll up even with it as it sat complacently on a roadside fencepost. Near Port Antonio a copper-colored Jamaican Owl in the hotel driveway permitted us to queue up for full-frame scope views. Classified in its own genus, Pseudoscops—literally “False Screech-Owl”—by taxonomists, the dark eyes that reflected coal-red in the spotlight reminded me more of a Strix species. Jamaican Owl is approximately twice the size of a screech-owl, but it does have screech-owl-like “ear” tufts. Another thrill for me was seeing the nominate form of Red-tailed Hawk. Buteo jamaicensis was originally described from these resident island raptors. All of my life I’ve wanted to see just how close the “original” Red-tail comes to matching our North American version. The verdict: remarkably similar but with a bright cinnamon breast straight from the West Indies. It has to be said that Jamaica was lousy with wintering Black-throated Blue Warblers, a wonderful treat for those of us from the western U.S—and perhaps not too painful for our Eastern participants either! The scenery was nearly as photogenic. Our route had us visiting Jamaica’s coastline north, south, and east, where the glass-clear waters were reliably an alluring hue of azure. Banks of gay yellow lady’s purse blossoms lined the Blue Mountain roads, and the sensual, flesh-pale begonias at Marshall’s Pen literally towered over our heads. Perhaps because of our hostess’s unfailing humor, energy, and intelligence, Marshall’s Pen was everyone’s favorite. This 310-acre working cattle ranch is Ann Sutton’s home patch. She seems to know every tree and every bird’s territory. Her actual home was constructed in 1795. First used to process coffee, the sprawling building has been remodeled for contemporary comfort but retains the feel and the furnishings of a rich Victorian past. Ann showed us a tremendous beam hewn from a local hardwood that centuries later is still the principal support for the second floor of the great house. Delicious family-style meals served on the porch were constantly interrupted by the pageant of “thrumming” Red-billed Streamertails attending Ann’s garden. The male “Doctorbird’s” seven-inch-long tail streamers have fluted inner edges that are probably responsible for its softly rhythmic flight. This March we gave Ann 72 hours notice, but before I ever left Jamaica I asked Ann Sutton to lead Borderland’s reprise visit in 2013. I’m delighted to tell you she accepted!
The Preliminary 2013 Borderland Tours Schedule
Australian King-Parrot. Photo by Rick Taylor
The Borderland office has been a beehive of activity for most of the past two months as we've made crucial reservations, contacted our guides to confirm availability, and sent hundreds of e-mails. We won't say that everything is done—it never is!—but it looks like we can safely announce the 2013 tour schedule. San Blas, Mexico: Jungle & Barranca with Homer Hansen & Rick Taylor—Jan. 22-29 Belize & Chan Chich with Chris Sharpe—Feb. 3-13 Arizona: Colorado River, The Coast of Arizona with Rick Taylor—Feb. 7-10 Arizona: Hawks & Cranes with Rick Taylor—Feb. 10-17 Jamaica with Ann Sutton & Rick Taylor—Mar. 27-Apr. 4 & Apr. 4-12 Florida: Tropical Specialties with Paul Bithorn & Rick Taylor—Apr. 16-23 South Texas: Lower Valley & the Edwards Plateau with Barbara Bickel & Rick Taylor—Apr. 23-30 West Texas: Big Bend & the Davis Mtns. with Barbara Bickel & Rick Taylor—Apr. 30-May 7 Arizona: Owls & Trogons with Moez Ali & Rick Taylor—May 11-18 England & Scotland with Richard Fray, Paul Green, & Rick Taylor—May 23-June 3 Shetland Island Extension with Richard Fray & Rick Taylor—June 3-June 8 Alaska I: Pribilof Islands with Moez Ali—June 1-7 Alaska II: Denali & Kenai Peninsula with Moez Ali—June 6-14 Alaska III: Nome & Barrow with Moez Ali—June 13-22 Costa Rica with Carlos Gomez—July 1-13 Arizona: Hummingbirds with Moez Ali & Rick Taylor—Aug. 1-8 Kenya: Amboseli, Tsavo, & Coastal Pre-trip with Moez Ali—Sep. 23-Oct. 1 Kenya: Birds & Wildlife with Moez Ali—Oct. 1-18 Colombia with Rick Taylor—Oct. 2-21 Australia with Philip Maher & Rick Taylor—Oct. 28-Nov. 12
Launching 2012 in Arizona
by Rick Taylor
Sandhill Cranes against a Willcox Sunset on our 2012 Hawks and Cranes tour. Photo by Rick Taylor
Ready to Travel NOW!
Are you dreading another long, hot summer? Perhaps one or more of these three trips in our Alaskan tour suite, or our August "Second Spring" tour to the mountains of Southeastern Arizona—all confirmed departures with small groups—is for you. E-mail us or call us at 1-520-882-7650 to reserve your space, get your plane ticket, and pack your bags!  Alaska I, Pribilof IslandsJune 1-7 The Pribilof Islands support perhaps the biggest colony of nesting sea birds in the world, as well as a rookery of 1.7 million Northern Fur Seals. During our four days on St. Paul Island we’ll have time to visit—and photograph—these teeming wildlife communities practically from arm’s length. Scientists speculate that the alcid family evolved here in the Bering Sea, and there is simply no better place to see breeding Thick-billed Murres, and Parakeet, Crested, and Least Auklets, as well as quizzical Horned and Tufted Puffins. Cliff-nesting specialties include gorgeous Red-faced Cormorants and Red-legged Kittiwakes (a species that nests only in the Pribilofs and the nearby Russian Commander Islands), as well as Northern Fulmar. Rock Sandpipers and Gray-crowned Rosy-Finches (the largest subspecies in the world), Snow Buntings, and Lapland Longspurs, all in display flights and in dazzling mating plumage, are constant distractions.
$4195 with Rick Taylor
Alaska II, Denali & Kenai June 6-14 The world of Alaskan Wildlife II captures the best of three distinct biogeographical regions: the dark spruce forests and mirror lakes of the central coast, the bird rookery islands of the Gulf of Alaska, and the taiga-tundra majesty of the interior's Alaska Range, perhaps the premier wildlife-viewing area in all North America. Our first destination is Denali National Park, a six million acre wilderness beneath 20,320'-elevation Mount McKinley, highest point in all North America—and rising 18,000 feet above the surrounding plateau, the highest land massif in the world. Here we may find Golden Eagles, Willow and Rock Ptarmigans, Northern Hawk Owls, Grizzly Bears, Gray Wolves, Caribou, Moose, and flocks of snow-white Dall Sheep grazing on swatches of tundra punctuated with spring’s first blue and yellow flowers. The Chiswell sea cliffs provide refuge for tens of thousands of Black-legged Kittiwakes and comical Tufted Puffins. Close relatives here too include such distinctive species pairs as Common and Thick-billed Murres, Marbled and Kittlitz’s Murrelets, and Rhinoceros and Parakeet Auklets. And we’ll not neglect the community of birds that inhabit the deep spruce forests of the peninsula itself. Among these are Spruce Grouse, Three-toed Woodpecker, American Dipper, Varied Thrush, and Pine Grosbeak.
$3495 with Moez Ali & Rick Taylor
Alaska III, Barrow & Nome June 13-22 Barrow, located at a latitude of 71°, 330 miles north of the Arctic Circle, is the northernmost point in Alaska. Here the sun never sets for 84 days from sunrise on May 10 through sunset on August 2. Permafrost pools scattered across the apron of tundra north of the Brooks Range host an astonishing assemblage of high arctic avifauna. Displaying Pectoral Sandpipers and Red Phalaropes are abundant; acrobatic Pomarine, Parasitic, and Long-tailed Jaegers compete for microtine rodents with Snowy Owls, the most common raptor. All four species of North American eiders are apt to be found in the precincts of Barrow. Nome, a small Eskimo village on the treeless shore of the Bering Sea, is situated far from any road access on a remote corner of the Seward Peninsula. Pretty Asian specialties such as Bluethroat, Yellow Wagtail, and Northern Wheatear share this vast landscape with lordly Gyrfalcon and Golden Eagle. Red-throated and Pacific Loons, are common, and Arctic Loons can usually be found. Regular rarities include Emperor Goose, Red-necked Stint, and Aleutian Tern. On a special trip inland through the starkly beautiful mountains we may find Reindeer, Moose, and Musk Ox, as well as upland breeders such as Rock Ptarmigan, Surfbird, Wandering Tattler, and—possibly—Bristle-thighed Curlew. For species richness, the birding at Nome is the best in Alaska.
$4295 with Moez Ali & Rick Taylor
 Hummingbirds of ArizonaAugust 1-8 Southeastern Arizona is where Mexico's Sierra Madre mountains, and the Sonora and Chihuahuan Deserts all spill across the international boundary. With them comes an array of "Mexican" hummingbirds found nowhere else north of the border, as well as the richest species diversity of any land-bounded area in the entire United States. August is the month to see it. Summer rains have greened the landscape, started the creeks, and decreased the temperatures. Late-arriving tropical specialties like the Berylline, White-eared, Lucifer, and Violet-crowned Hummingbirds compete for nectar on flowering agaves with returning Allen's, Rufous, Broad-tailed, and Calliope Hummingbirds, already moving south to their winter quarters in the Sierra Madre. Naturally the breeding hummers, Blue-throated, Magnificent, Broad-billed, Black-chinned, Costa's, and Anna's, strive heroically to stem the tide of colorful invaders. The result is "feeder fights" of dozens of birds. To observe these pinwheels of iridescence in combat at favored agave stands, mountain meadows, and feeding stations such as Patagonia, Miller Canyon, and Portal, is to behold one of the great bird spectacles of the entire United States. Other possible birds include the Southwest specialty raptors, Gray, Harris's, and Zone-tailed Hawks, Elegant Trogons—often feeding fledglings in August—and Painted Restarts, Grace's, Red-faced, and Olive Warblers from the Sierra Madres. Join us for Southeastern Arizona's birding-famous "Second Spring!"
$1995 with Moez Ali & Rick Taylor
Phone: (520) 882-7650
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Nutting’s Flycatcher was another spectacular find in Arizona this winter. Recorded fewer than five times historically, always in Arizona, the individual that showed up in the Lower Colorado River Valley this year was the first to be documented since the winter of 1997-98. Lynne and I paid homage to the bird with Joe Comela and Susan Swain in early February. This was my second consecutive winter visit to the area—fellow guide Clive Green and I trotted over last year to marvel at a Yellow-billed Loon—and I had a pretty good idea where to look for other winter specialties. These included Barrow’s Goldeneyes, Common, Pacific, and Red-throated Loons, courting Western and Clark’s Grebes, and a lazy Thayer’s Gull that could scarcely bring itself to stand up and blink.
After an hour of intense listening, Lynne and I repaired to a little off-alley bistro for an overdue lunch stop. Tubac is that sort of place. Basically a community of artists and artisans with more galleries than homes—at least in the town center—naturally the only mid-price eateries are tucked well-away from the pavement where the affluent tourists roam. 