Adventure-seekers
have long navigated the 30,000 miles from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego, follo
wing the legendary Pan-American Highway. But the road abruptly stops in Eas
tern Panama and the next 99 miles is an undulating green fabric where the e
arth primeval has successfully withstood the onslaught of chainsaw and asph
alt. This region is known as “The Darién.” The same mountains, forests and
wetlands that have foreclosed all road-construction between Panama and Colo
mbia have created a de facto wilderness. Here, among the largest primary fo
rest tracts in Panama, live avian treasures that have been eliminated every
where else in Central America, and throughout most of South America, too. W
hite-headed Wren, considered uncommon throughout much of its limited range,
is frequently seen on the grounds of the Canopy Camp. The towering forest
of Filo del Tallo Hydrological Reserve envelops the Camp, offering such reg
ional specialties as Gray-cheeked Nunlet, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, and Pale-b
ellied Hermit. Stepping onto the trails here can yield such winged ornament
s as White-bellied Antbird, Golden-headed Manakin, and Royal Flycatcher, wi
th real chances for the elusive Tiny Hawk, an accipiter no larger than a ro
bin. Red-throated Caracara—here in its last stronghold—and King Vulture can
often be seen flying over the adjacent clearings. Other fabulous birding o
ptions exist within 30 to 60 minute drives from the Camp. At Yaviza, the ea
sternmost terminus of the Pan-American Highway, possibilities include Jet A
ntbird, Pied Water-Tyrant, the range-restricted Black Oropendola, Black-cap
ped Donacobius, Red-breasted Blackbird, and Pearl Kite—the smallest Neotrop
ical raptor. Full day outings in the environs of the Rio Tuquesa can yield
such tantalizing species as Spectacled Parrotlet, Bare-crowned and Chestnut
-backed Antbirds, Moustached Antwren, Black-bellied Wren, Orange-crowned Or
iole, and charismatic birds such as Black Hawk-Eagle, Chestnut-fronted Maca
w, Red-billed Scythebill and the exquisite Blue Cotinga, attired in turquoi
se so rich it is simply hypnotic. A visit to the property of the Tierra Nue
va Foundation offers possible rewards like Slaty-backed Forest-Falcon, Red-
rumped Woodpecker, Cinnamon Becard, Yellow-breasted and Black-billed flycat
chers, White-eared Conebill, and even a chance for Great Currasow. Perhaps
the most impressive aspect of our visit to this remote region is the level
of comfort provided at the Canopy Camp itself. Situated only 1.5 miles off
the Pan-American Highway, spacious, safari-style permanent tents are set at
op raised platforms and furnished with locally harvested teak flooring in t
he bedrooms and en suite bathrooms. Afternoon siestas can be spent reclinin
g in chairs on the private deck for each tent, or slung in a hammock under
the eaves of the open-air lounge area. Sequestered in spectacular lowland r
ainforest and providing creature comforts unmatched in the region, the Cano
py Camp offers a superb base for exploration of the wilderness land bridge
which unites the whole of the Western Hemisphere.
Leaders: Panamanian leader & < a href="https://www.borderland-tours.com/index.php?option=com_content&v iew=article&id=29:john-yerger&catid=18:leaders-and-staff&Itemid =155">John Yerger
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